NY I love you but you're making me fat

Famously, New York has meant many things to different people. Le Corbusier thought it was a "beautiful catastrophe", James Murphy of LCD Soundsystem was also in love with it but it was bringing him down and the late Gil Scott-Heron confessed that "NY is killing me". Maybe it did in the end. We will never know.

Needless to say I am also in love with New York but my ultimate goal after this 5 days trip was not to get killed by it but rather to have the city's cooks make me fat. As I boarded my plane at Dublin Airport, I was mentally finalising a list of things I had to eat and venues I had to visit.

In my view, New York is still unrivaled when it comes to the sheer endless amount of world cuisines that have found a new home in the Big Apple. Berlin might have taken over as the world's coolest city, but nowhere can one let one's taste buds travel to so many different countries in one go like one can in New York.

Hence, my plan of action was decided. Fuck culture, praise the chefs!

What follows next is my record of foodie havens that I graced with a royal visit. Maybe you'll find a useful tip or two for your own visit to the city. Go on... Indulge!

The best bit were the two women at the next door table who kept throwing us nosy looks whenever a new dish arrived and eventually asked for our entire order to make sure they also got the same dishes.

Whole Foods Market - I know what you might think but I don't care really. When it comes to Supermarket quality, Whole Foods is way ahead of any other brand that I know of. The selection of vegetables, meat, fish, freshly baked bread and salads alone is worth jizzing your pants over. On top come the huge selection of things like Granola, organic sauces and dressings, juice, coffee, spices, oils .... The list is endless. The best thing about it is: You can get yourself a nice big breakfast downstairs and then head up to the restaurant area and eat all the goodness you just bought right there and then. Where can you do this at an Albert Heijn without looking like a bum? That's right.

Stumptown Coffee Roasters - after having visited their first coffee shop in Portland, OR earlier this year, I couldn't believe my eyes when I found out they had also set up shop in NYC. Located in the fancy Ace Hotel, Stumptown is famous not only for its absurdly good coffee but also for its cute staff wearing vintage hats. Having set myself the goal of avoiding Starfucks at all costs I happily traveled across half of Manhattan to join the long line for a Stumptown brew.

Nobu Next Door - on my second night in New York, my dear host and friend Theo took me out to experience Nobu. After having heard plenty about the mind blowing Japanese food and impossibly long waiting list I thought Theo was kidding when he said "So, tonight we're going for dinner at Nobu bitch." Obviously it turned out he had a friend there who managed to get us a perfect corner table at with perfect view of the whole restaurant. Needless to say, the food was beyond what I expected. As I sucked on my cucumber Martini, the waiter kept filling our table with dishes such as: Black Cod in Miso, Kobe Beef sliders, Kushiyaki Chicken Skewers, Bigeye Tuna and soft shell crab Sushi, Prawn Tempura and Blueberry Cheesecake. The best bit were the two women at the next door table who kept throwing us nosy looks whenever a new dish arrived and eventually asked for our entire order to make sure they also got the same dishes.

KumGangSan - no visit to Manhattan can be complete without an extended lunch at one of the various Korean restaurants on 49th Street (also called Korea Avenue). Korean food is a rather acquired taste and definitely not in everyone's top 5 but if you love Kimchi as much as me then you'll know what you're in for. Ok, the restaurant decor is pretty tacky with it's waterfall and piano balcony but it's all part of the experience. Pretend you're showing your respect to the late beloved leader. As soon as we had sat down our table was covered in a dozen tiny dishes containing everything pickled under the sun and lots and lots of Kimchi. I went for a Duk Man Doo, which is essentially a traditional Korean broth with meat dumplings and rice cakes. It was actually quite good.

Alice's Tea Cup - after spending an hour staring at the very bizarre Maurizio Cattelan exhibition "All" at the Guggenheim Museum we wandered across Central Park to the Upper West Side to enjoy a hot cup of tea at what my friend's friend called "New York's only Alice in Wonderland themed tea room". Luckily they also do "tea to go" because after hearing a concerto of screaming kids in the main room I appreciated the fact that they had a 1 hour wait for a table. I got myself a cup of delicious Lavender Earl Grey and a dangerously rich Chocolate cup cake that had me fearing for the state of my enamel.

Remedy Diner NYC - one of the items I was after the most was a good "Pulled Pork Sandwich". There is very little in terms of comfort food that comes anywhere near this typical American favourite. The last time I had one was at the Hard Rock Cafe in Amsterdam and that was, well as you would expect. Thus, when I walked past this diner on Houston Street I could not help myself but get a table right away and order a "Pulled Pork Sandwich". Admittedly, it was not as great as the one I had in Miami earlier this year but it satisfied my need for barbequed meat as much as when someone offers you a Camel when all you want is a Marlboro Light.

Sweet Spring Restaurant - unless you are fluent in Cantonese, Mandarin or you know exactly where to go for juicy dumplings you might end up feeling rather lost in New York's buzzling China Town. Lucky for me, my friend Courtney had sent me a link to a "Flight of the Concords" walk as suggested by Time Out Magazine NY. I don't quite remember what Bret and Jermain's connection was to this tiny Chinese dumpling joint but I can guarantee that this is dumpling making at its best. The menu is mostly in Chinese and the lady behind the counter seemed to understand little more than 1,2,3 so I pointed at the menu with the intention of getting my hands on 3 steamed pork and chive dumplings. What I eventually got (after every other Chinese person in the shop got served) was a box full of steaming hot dumplings (15 in total rather than the 3 I wanted because they came in sets of 5) for $3,45. BARGAIN! I went to sit on a little bench around the corner and didn't let anyone, not even those horrible looking pigeons bother me as I sucked out the delicious juice from every single one of those tiny drops of heaven.

Bagelsmith - what Febo is to Amesterdam, Bagels are to New York. If you leave without having had one you should be tied up and thrown in the Hudson River. One of Brooklyn's most frequented joints also has the rather delicious Pumpernickel bagels on offer. Open 24 hours, these richly filled bread rings are also the perfect alternative to getting a greasy Kebab after a wild night out. My ham and cheese bagel was so stacked I could barely get it in my mouth.

Bakeri - one of the things I enjoyed the most about Brooklyn was the laid back and friendly atmosphere everywhere. Especially in the various little coffee shops and bakeries. This one got very high marks for just being so cuuuuuuttteee. All the girls working here were dressed in 50's vintage clothes and all the delicious little pastries were baked in an ancient tiled oven at the back of the shop. I got myself some fabulous Lavender Short Bread to go with my latte which my friend Courtney described as "biting into a biscuit made of of bath salts".

I stared back at my lasagna and remembered a scene from Sex and the City where Samantha spent an entire evening eating raw soups and other strange concoctions in order to get in Smith's pants.

Momofuku Noodle Bar - obviously after visiting Nobu Next Door, any other Japanese food I would enjoy would have to be Ramen. These piping hot and extremely delicious noodle soups are one of the most heart warming dishes ever invented. Having been told about Momofuku by a friend (supposedly chef David Chang is quite celebrated) I was curious to find out what NY's take on this traditional dish was. The last time I had Ramen was in Kyoto and I have refused to try them anywhere else for danger of being rather poop. I was quickly ushered to one of the stools at the bar and got myself a bowl of the signature dish; pork belly, pork shoulder and poached egg Ramen as well as a serving of 5 spice potato chips. It wasn't really bad or anything but I suppose when you've eaten this dish at a traditional Japanese hole in the wall over in Nippon nothing will ever quite taste the same again.

Pure Food and Wine - for about 2 months prior to my arrival in NY I got the daily Groupon New York newsletter because I was curious to see what kind of restaurants they would suggest. One day, this raw and vegan place close to Union Square appeared and I decided to buy the lunch option for $10. The restaurant is in a basement location just off Irving Place and a bit dark in my opinion. By the time I actually got there I had forgotten about the fact that it was all raw so I ordered myself the spicy sesame salad followed by a courgette and tomato lasagna and a lemon finger for desert. The first dish was actually rather good but when the main course arrived and I took my first bite I had a bit of a "???%%&^$@!???" moment. I waved over the waiter and said: "Ehm, my dish is cold." "Oh yea, haha," he goes. "It's all raw. We don't cook anything." "Riiiighhhht, oh yes I must have forgotten, ehehehe." I stared back at my lasagna and remembered a scene from Sex and the City where Samantha spent an entire evening eating raw soups and other strange concoctions in order to get in Smith's pants. I suppose the fact that it had a bit of a novelty factor made it taste rather ok but I doubt I'd head here for lunch every day if I worked around the corner. The funniest thing was one of my friends who lives in NY actually worked at this place until that day (which I didn't know) and on the same evening when we met at a bar I told him and his friends about my strange experience and they all burst out laughing.

Think Coffee - my endless quest for finding local coffee shops also brought me to Think Coffee a couple of times. This local NYC outfit with a random location in Seoul, Korea has some of the best coffee I tasted. I also loved their engagement with the local communities and the fact that the Baristas really knew what the hell they were doing. Logically I got myself a pack of delicious smelling El Salvador coffee to take home.

Bare Burger - if there's one thing Americans are good at then it's making a really damn fine burger. Following my friend Rhylie's friend's suggestion we meandered through the NYU area of Manhattan to get our hands on what they called "the best fucking burger in town". Not only did they have a seriously awesome selection of all organic burgers but also the best onion rings I have ever tasted. Obviously I went for the biggest fuck off burger on the menu, the promisingly named "Bare Burger Supreme" and as a choice of meat I went for organic Bison. Yum???? You bet your ass it was. They also had Lamb, Ostrich, Elk, Wild Boar, various types of Chicken and of course your all time favourite: Organic Beef.

Bark Hot Dogs - ok, I am coming to the end of my list and yes, I haven't forgotten about them ok? Christ. Calm yourself! Yes, we all know NY is also famous for its hot dogs. Yes, I walked past a dozen street vendors selling this tiny sausage-in-a-bun but why go with the masses when you can also have a more gourmet version? Exactly. Thus, while I explored the area around 5th avenue in Brooklyn on my last day I stumbled across this little wood cabin lookalike joint that specialises in: Exactly. Hot Dogs. I got myself a "Beans + Frank" dog and sipped an organic Lime and Lemonade while watching the hipsters outside hobble down the street. It was a rather delightful dog I have to say.

Gorilla Coffee - last but not least, especially because of their fucking awesome packaging, one last recommendation for getting a great coffee while you're out in Brooklyn. These guys have only one shop but they are so cool that even Wholefoods has started selling their Brooklyn roasted coffee beans. If hipsters and young mums gather somewhere in this neighbourhood you can rest assured it will be here.

So, I have come to the end of my foodie haven list. I am glad I have an excellent metabolism because I can assure you I would otherwise have come back to Amsterdam several kilos heavier.

If you ever head to any of these places let me know what you think. I am rather curious to hear your views. Much love xxx

A pleasant surprise

When I finally touched down at Managua airport at around 4 am local time I began to see stars just from standing in line at immigration. Hours earlier I had already started asking myself if I shouldn't have just paid a little extra and gone on the direct flight from Madrid but then my friend Meg kept insisting it was "all part of the adventure". (So far it had been Amsterdam -> Zurich -> Miami -> Ft Lauderdale -> Managua) At this point in time (roughly 20 hours of pure traveling into the trip) I couldn't find the energy to argue with her so I just faintly nodded in agreement.


Coming to Nicaragua was initially more collateral damage of my travel planning instead of being the actual destination where I intended to spend 7 days of my time.

And so as we rose early the next morning to catch our bus to Costa Rica I convinced myself that this country in Central America couldn't possibly rival its Southern neighbour in terms of attractions and natural beauty. As our cab drove us to the Transnica bus station past a large array of shanty towns and open sewers I was getting to a point where I just wanted to get out of here no matter what.

But ... judging a book by its cover doesn't always pay off as I was soon to discover.

Being half Mexican and used to shabby buses, late (or canceled altogether) departures and so forth I was probably too biased to give this sleepy nation a chance to prove me wrong. We boarded the bus and were shown to our brand new (the plastic cover was still on the seatbelts - although this could stem from lack of use?) and plush seats and as soon as the clock hit 10am we were on our way. I was astonished. How could this be?

Then once we had left Managua behind and made our way towards the Southern boarder Nica finally began to show her real face. Rolling landscapes of towering volcanoes surrounded by Central America's largest fresh water lake were just the bit we could see. And then we passed a Dutch style wind park. My face was like: "?????".

Flash forward 2 days and we're back at the border this time walking across on foot taking us a total of 30 minutes to leave Costa Rica and re-enter Nicaragua (the bus version took 2 hours). My friends Marc and Meg had convinced me that Nicaragua wasn't all that bad and with a few promising destinations in sight we took on the challenge of traveling this rugged land. Before we knew it we were in a taxi to San Jorge on the shores of Lake Nicaragua and just as we arrived the ancient ferry was ready to depart to Isla Ometepe. This volcanic island in the middle of the lake is not only a breath taking natural wonder but also one of the few places in this part of the world that has been inhabited by humans for more than 4000 years.

Lake Nicaragua itself is quite a wonder in its own right because despite being a lake it has major waves that shook our little ferry through and through and made me wonder if this lake would soon become my grave.

Back on steady ground we stopped at the American Cafe, which is run by a lovely old couple serving American favourites to starving travelers who have had enough of rice and beans. We were actually just developing a love for this local dish but waffles were also acceptable in this light of day.

Based on some Belgian traveler's tips we took a car to Santo Domingo on the smaller part of the island that houses volcano "Maderas". The town ended up being a wind swept sleepy village with little to do except going for a walk along the main road and trying to catch a sunset.
The next morning we rented a quad and a dirt bike the latter becoming my nemesis on all uphill rides and leading me to curse loudly in German a great number of times. Luckily I was sure none of the locals understood. Or did they?

It took us a good 3 hours to get around the Northern side of Maderas following a series of terrible dirt tracks until we finally got to the lovely calm side of the island, which was facing the South. Surprisingly, the water of Lake Nicaragua here was flat as a mirror making us feel slightly disappointed about the fact that we chose to stay on the windy Northern side. Eventually we found the entrance to the famous waterfall, paid our entrance fee and took the bikes up as far as possible in order to do the remaining 2 km on foot.
Suddenly we were on our own surrounded by lush vegetation, delicate butterflies and a rather rocky path that was meant to lead us to a waterfall that had its source in the crater lake of Volcan Maderas. Eventually it came into sight and ok. It wasn't much of a waterfall. Merely a trickle but none the less it was a lush refreshment to jump in into its collection pool.

Later as we descended back on our motorised vehicles my bike decided to die on me for good and left me cursing and kicking as I rolled it down in neutral all the way to the gate by the street. All present locals gave it a go and effectively confirmed my fear: "Si senor, ya no sirve su moto. Mejor la deja aqui o algo." - noooo! What about my $50 deposit???? aarrrggghhh
Luckily one of the guys knew the owner and got him to come over to solve the issue, which he did at a breathtaking speed.

The benefit of this incident was that we got to enjoy a stunning sunset from a small settlement called "Merida" that was full of backpackers, hammocks and music and that we wished we had stayed at. No matter.

The next day we got back on the ferry and took a cab to San Juan del Sur to get a bit more beach time in. San Juan del Sur is dubbed the "Acapulco" of Nicaragua with plenty of new luxury resorts being built in the surrounding beaches and lots of gringos snapping up "cheap" property, which by local standards have already reached extortionate levels.
The little town center with its charmingly painted houses and easy going attitude immediately soothed our senses and after checking into a lovely guesthouse we made our way down to the beach and got our well deserved and literally ice cold beer. Bliss!

The town itself doesn't offer much except for main amenities since the surrounding beaches such as Maderas are the main attraction but the relaxed lifestyle and the friendly locals made this town a perfect place to stop and recharge. The next morning we had breakfast at one of the town's institutions called "Gato Negro" - a small bookshop cum cafe owned by an American couple who also own a coffee plantation near the border with Honduras and who offer unexpected treats such as bagels and "Superfood" smoothies to get you up and running.

Later we took another cab that took us to one of Nicaragua's most beautiful cities - Granada. A colonial pearl perched on the Western shore of Lake Nicaragua and studded with stunning Spanish heritage churches and lovely town villas that concealed backyards full of flowers and hammocks.
The main square "Parque central" forms the central meeting point for locals, the waiting point for "coches" (i.e. horse drawn carts) and tourists alike. From there you can wander down the main street with its beautifully coloured houses and abundance of bars and restaurants until you get to a rather ugly lake front that smells of gutter and looks both run down and dangerous at night. I thought it was a real shame that they did not extend the lovely part of town all the way to the lake like in other cities.

Eventually we took a seat in one of the bars and bumped into a couple that we had met in our hostel in Ometepe and in San Juan and who were also on the same flight as my friend Meg and I back to Ft Lauderdale that same night. Like in South East Asia it seems most people follow a similar route when in this part of the world.

In the end, despite the extremely persistent street vendors trying to sell you everything ranging from hammocks to their grandmothers, Granada was a perfect ending to a high adrenaline trip through this Central American nation that despite its close proximity to Costa Rica is talked about very little in general travel literature.

Yes. Costa Rica is doing the whole Eco-tourism thing quite effectively and is much more developed than other Central American nations (to some degree) but if you are looking for a real Latin American experience on the cheap, look no further. Nicaragua also has it all. Beaches, friendly people, beautiful colonial cities (none of those in CR), rain forests and truly ice cold beer. And if that's not a winner then I don't know what is.

Plastic Surgery On The River Elbe

"Einen Kaffee mit Milch bitte. Keinen Milchkaffee!", my friend Carina just told the waitress at a cafe facing the Grasbrookhafen. It was very important the waitress got this order right since my friend hated milky coffees that tasted weak and powerless.
As we took in the views from the cafe over Hamburg's most exciting new neighbourhood it seemed clear to me that a strong coffee was indeed what we needed.
Across the water stood Unilever's new German HQ and the Marco Polo tower and behind it lay the river Elbe and the Eastern portion of Europe's second largest harbour.

Not even 5 years ago the whole area was nothing but a giant building site and locals often joked about this so called "HafenCity". Called it a waste of time and money, even a scandal!

I even remember parking my car around here when I was doing an internship at a nearby Advertising Agency.
A couple of years later everything suddenly seems different. The buildings that now grace the "Kaiserkai" and its immediate surroundings are nothing short of astonishing, from an architectonic point of view.
Residential houses that look like a giant set of drawers rub shoulders with triangle shaped office buildings and funky open spaces that invite you to sit down and take in a truly unique view. Even the streetlamps are designer!
At the end of the Grasbrookhafen lies the futuristic and highly controversial "Elbphilharmonie", which will no doubt be a serious rival to Sydney's famous Opera House.

Costing the local tax payer an estimated total of €323 million (as opposed to the original €186 million) the construction and management often came under fire from angry locals who accused the city of spending money on pretty buildings rather than focusing on investment in education and other sectors. A claim recent governments could not deny.
However, no one can ignore that once completed (estimated for the end of 2012 and designed by Herzog & De Meuron) the new Elbphilharmonie will firmly place Hamburg at the forefront of musical extravagance.
Interestingly enough the building's full facade can only be seen from the water or the other side of the river Elbe.

Behind the "Kaiserkai" lies the "Sandtorkai", which was the first promenade to enjoy a construction boom in the early years of this millenium.
Now housing the HafenCity's first university as well as several international shipping companies it forms an interesting buffer between the iconic and UNESCO World Heritage listed "Speicherstadt" and the HafenCity's face on the river.

The city is very keen to press ahead with the completion of several other key projects such as the new metro line U4, which will eventually connect this part of town with the city center as well as other major undertakings such as the "Hamburg Cruise Center" as well as the "Science Center".
Overall the HafenCity is is Europe's largest inner city development and an exciting project to watch as Hamburg continues to cement its position as one of Germany's leading cities.

What strikes me is the speed with which Hamburg is rejuvenating itself while Berlin seems to be running out of steam.

Not long ago Berlin was hailed as Germany's fastest changing city yet today the city is poor and has run out of room to build new skyscrapers or other iconic buildings within the inner city limits.

Although personally I wouldn't choose to live in the HafenCity (my point about it being Europe's largest inner city development suffices) I still consider this area to be both exciting and surprising.

As my friend Carina and I left the cafe and began our stroll along the water I felt a sense of pride that my hometown was transforming itself from a traveler's well kept secret to one of Europe's most exciting metropolises.

The good and the ugly in paradise together

"Mexico ends deadliest year of drug crackdown"

Headline sound familiar?
If your answer is yes then you have indeed been following the news recently. If not then you either live on a remote island in the South Pacific or you simply can't read.

Yes, Mexico has had a tough year in 2010. Ever since incumbent president Felipe Calderon launched his war against the hugely powerful drug cartels the country that is home to tacos and sombreros has featured rather negatively in the press.
Although this blog entry is not about the political situation there it cannot be ignored that it might have a serious effect on people's determination to visit Mexico.

However, despite the ongoing violence (which is concentrated largely in the Northern states bordering the USA) Mexico continues to be a destination that can offer true bliss to anyone who can see past the discouraging headlines and decides to go.

Mexico is a thrilling nation that is as diverse as it is huge. With a total area that is 5.5 times as big as Germany and 15 times as big as England Mexico can satisfy almost any burning desire. Be it tropical rain-forests, desert plains, pumping holiday resorts, colonial city centres, pre-hispanic temples or sleepy coastal villages.

For someone like me who is half Mexican it is easy to find praise for my beloved country of birth yet with all that is on offer it is often hard to pick out what is just right.

This particular entry will therefore focus on only one town, which I have been regularly going to during the past 10 years and which I have come to love with all my heart and for all the right reasons.

Puerto Escondido (meaning Hidden Port) still has a slightly mysterious ring to it and is often associated with a slightly alternative and hippy approach to the "Mexican side of life". Luckily, despite evident developments over the past years Puerto has managed to retain its friendly and cosy style.

What follows next is a series of pictures that should give you an idea of why I consider this place one of the best kept secrets in Mexico and why anyone who passes through finds it hard to leave.


Endless beaches all to yourself


A rugged wilderness with a stunning beach backdrop


Befriend a local


Watch local boys catching fish and then enjoy a delicious order of "pescado a la plancha"


Grab fresh local produce at the market


Chicken liver and feet anyone?


Fall in love with the tropical wilderness


Join locals and tourists alike for a game of Jenga and a Mojito at "Casa Babylon"


Take part in a weirdly wonderful

Temazcalli

Watch a fire show at "Piedra De La Iguana"


Enjoy a sundowner during one of many stunning sunsets

INFO BOX

How to get there?
One daily flight from Mexico City to Puerto Escondido on

Aeromar

Alternatively fly to Huatulco on

Interjet

Bus connections to Acapulco, Oaxaca and Mexico City

Where to sleep?
Puerto has a great deal of cheap hostels. Try and stay close to the beach either on the main beach promenade or at Punta Zicatela

Where to eat?
Dozens of good eateries offer fresh fish of the day. Alternatively visit "Playa Kabbalah" or "Bananas"

A new approach for 2011

After having written plenty of blog entries in the form or stories and short articles I will adapt my publishing style to a more reader friendly manner.

For now I will only post short entries about things I see, hear, taste, do and feel.
This will make it easier for me to write while on the road and for you to digest while on the road.

When there's something worth writing about at length then it will be so.

Happy holidays!