Crosses

First of I gotta give you some insight into how this whole trip came about and why I was now standing where I was, the bridge that formed the official border between Azerbaijan and Georgia.

When Russia went to war with Georgia in 2008 over the the break-away region of South Ossetia, I was sitting in my office's smoking room watching CNN LIVE REPORT or whatever it's called these days. I took in the news and the reports and wondered thought to myself: "I wonder what Georgia is like?". My colleagues had no idea of my crazy plans to visit a country that had just been at war otherwise they would probably have told me that I'm crazy. True, but a bit crazy is always better than a bit lame, right? Ok it's now 2010 but what was once a silly idea became reality.
See my first blog for a reference to my "troubled country fetish".

So there I was walking towards a Georgian border guard and based on what Danielle had told me about the friendliness of the people I was a bit hopeful that I would maybe see a smile or two. I handed over my passport to him and after asking: "From Germany" - which I personally always find a retarded question because obviously my passport says so - he actually said, and I am not lying: "Welcome to Georgia".
Phew that was a good start.

I changed some dollars and manat at the exchange booth and passed through customs in a breeze.
The nearest town, Lagodekhi, was a short taxi ride away and there I had to board a Marshrutka (minibus) to the capital Tbilisi. A toothless old man handed me my ticket and indicated I should wait somewhere.
Things take their time here and I was already used to that. As I gazed at the people around me I immediately noticed a difference in appearance and complexion. People here were much more European than only 6km behind me where the local look was much more Turkic.

Eventually my minibus started filling up and we set off along the "highway" to Tbilisi. We passed little houses with rose covered fences and yards where vegetables grew plentifully. Like in the Sheki region the hills were lush and green and as we descended towards the capital I spotted snow capped mountains and deserted fortresses in the background. If I had been into hiking I would have jumped straight off and made my way to the beautiful Caucasus mountains, but I wasn't. Not on this trip at least.

Georgia is one of the oldest and first Christian nations in the world. Another intriguing fact that lured me here. It was once kingdom of men, powerful empire and most recently a Soviet satellite state until it gained independence from the USSR in 1991. Although its billed the most democratic and forward thinking of all Caucasus republics, you can still see the scars that decades of Soviet rule have left behind.
None the less, it was always a favourite destination for Russian travelers for its rich wine culture (wine was first invented here) and its mild climate.

I was curious to find out how much of this rich heritage was still left.

We entered Tbilisi and the minibus parked at a relatively remote bus station. I managed to haggle a good price with a driver who then took me to my hostel (my CS attempts had not been successful here). It was a curious little place that had only recently opened up and as I walked into the small courtyard where it was located I was greeted by a bunch of kids who were clearly delighted to see another foreigner and let me know very loudly and clearly that they knew how to say: HELLO HELLO!



I grabbed a shower and wandered off towards Freedom Square, which during Soviet rule featured a large statue of Lenin in the center, which was now replaced with St.George killing a dragon, all in Gold of course. ;-)
The day was almost over and my goal for now was to find a place to eat and then go to one of the famous sulfur baths that are said to have "magical healing powers".

I walked down Lesedidzis qucha in search of Shemoikhede Genatsvale that according to my bible was a good place to taste some local fare. I ordered some eggplant with walnut and these little pastry squares filled with cheese and meat and was literally stuffed all the way top of my throat when I walked out of there. Mission part 1 completed.
I continued down along the same road towards the river and passed a collection of stores, a synagogue with a border looking Jew outside and a couple of little churches that were all in the typical Orthodox style of the region (and similar to the ones I had seen in rural Romania and Moldova). When I finally reached the little domes of the sulfur baths I couldn't decide, which one to pick. I was told to go to one of the communal baths but all they offered me were private baths costing 50Euros an hour. So no bath for me tonight :(

I wandered back to my hostel stopping at this little cafe that was half bookstore/half cafe with a very friendly owner and chilled out there for a while.

Back in my hostel I met a young American guy who told me he had spent 3 months in Azerbaijan therefore he now spoke fluent Azeri and was on his way from Georgia to Germany overland. I wished him good luck and didn't bother with him any further.

Ok I gotta be honest with you. I didn't actually do very much while I was in Georgia. I am going to use the lame excuse that I was dead tired from all the travelling and just wanted to chill for a couple of days but of course one could always counter: "Sure mate just stay in and see x y and z next time you're here".

The next day I spent walking around Rustaveli, and enjoying plenty of lattes at Entree cafe, which I declared my favourite hang out because I got excellent coffee, delicious almost croissants and free wifi here. I was satisfied.

After realising how little a pack of my favourite smokes brand cost I decided to also start sending little packages filled with Kent home. I bought a carton of Kent for 10 Euros from the local store and neatly filled an A4 envelope with 10 packs wrapped in a newspaper and walked to the central post office, that for some bizarre reason was located in a tiny building in a hidden courtyard. The woman at the counter took the package and held it with an awkward look on her face and then went: "What's inside? Can I see?". "Erm sorry are you from the KGB? Of course you cannot see it's not addressed to you is it?" I told her. Luckily that shut her up but being curious as she was I bet she opened the package after I left. Unbelievable! (I know it's totally illegal but still haha)

Later I ventured to the other side of the river passing a newly built and most bizarre looking bridge that in my opinion did nothing in favour of the beautiful old town with its delicate wooden balconies and the various church towers that peeped out here and there.
The Lonely Planet pretty much missed out this part of town for some reason also rendering the maps completely useless despite this part of town being almost 60% of the map of Central Tbilisi and only 8 or 9 streets having been graced with street names. As you might be able to imagine I was soon wandering around aimlessly not knowing where the heck I was. I asked around for the nearest Metro station but everyone I asked just looked at me as if I had oranges on my eyes or something.
Was the metro not called metro here?

Eventually I stumbled on a main road that lead towards one of the many bridges and there it was, thank god! Starving as I was I headed for a small local eatery that served up the most delicious Khinkali you'll ever eat. They are like big dumplings (like massive steamed dim sum) filled with spicy meat. If you ever come here you must visit Sashashnike and fill up on dumplings and beer and believe me it's only 2,50 Euros. You'll love it.

I took the metro back, I am still in love with those deep escalators, in fact the first time I was coming up at Rustaveli the day before I burst out laughing when I just saw a little head go past me on the downward escalator because people just sit down to do the 5 minute ride down and for some reason I found it hilarious.

Back in my own hood near the parliament building I wondered down tiny alleys and deserted streets of the old town that were speckled with charming old villas until I ended up Rkinis Rigi that was the hub of Tbilisi's coffee culture with charming places such as "KGB STILL WATCHING YOU".
When the evening came I got myself a bottle of very nice Georgian wine and just drank myself to sleep at the hostel for I was not going to wander around looking for party action on my own.

The next morning started with a latte, an almond croissant and of course a quick iphone check of news and blabla on facebook before I headed to Georgia's spiritual captial of Mtskheta. I took the metro to Didube bus station, which was more of a sprawling market (fancy buying a chick? check) and had to ask around several times before I found the right Marshrutka going that way.

This little town was only about 9km out of the center of Tbilisi and as soon as we left the city behind us all I saw was rivers and hills all around me. I got off the bus and walked up to Samtavro Church that had an army of old babushkas waiting at its gates for a merciful donation. I always found it interesting going to Orthodox churches because their lack of pews really confused me and because the customs inside the church are so different to what we're used to in the West.
People cross themselves 3 times everytime they pass a church (whether walking or driving), the kiss the door of the church and every religious artefact inside the church and stand in a cross formation inside the church during mass.

Later I wandered down to the Sveetitskhoveli Cathedral where I was lucky enough to witness a sermon given by the patriarch of the Georgian Orthodox church. It was quite a spectacle and when he exited the church he drove off in a big Landcruiser 4x4 that had to beep its horn quite significantly when trying to get out of the church grounds because some Georgian youngsters were showing off their tuned cars to each other in the square.

I took a Marshrutka back to Tbilisi and went for a walk around the old town and ended up having a drink at a KGB Still Watching you and engaged in a last bit of people watching for the day.
Georgian girls are actually quite pretty I have to admit and as I sat there I saw a couple of young guys and girls walk around with white shirts that had short messages and people's names written all over them. I never found out what this was for but it seemed like some "I finished school/exams/lost my virginity" thing.

ALSO: Very important! GEORGIAN WINE IS REALLY REALLY NICE! Give one of their reds a try they are really good! Yum :)

The next day I woke up quite early and headed to Ortachala bus station to catch my minibus to Armenia. After the taxi driver dropped me off an old man approached me and told me he was driving to Yerevan in a car and there was enough room for me to come. It cost a bit more but a least I would arrive earlier and a bit more comfortable. Or so I thought.
As it turned out I had to sit in the back in the middle between a mum and her screaming child and and older sweaty lady from Armenia.
Oh dear...